Introduction
Installing a new tile floor can completely transform the look and feel of a room. With the right preparation and materials, even novice DIYers can achieve professional-looking results. Tile floors provide a classic, durable, and stylish surface that works well in kitchens, bathrooms, entryways, and other high-traffic areas.
Before you begin tiling, it’s important to understand the process and gather all the necessary tools and supplies. Careful planning and layout is key for a seamless finished product. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step of installing a new tile floor, from prepping the subfloor to grouting and sealing the tiles. Follow these tips and with some patience and hard work, you’ll have a stunning new tile floor to enjoy for years to come.
Things You’ll Need
- Tile and any decorative tile pieces such as borders or medallions
- Tile adhesive (thinset mortar)
- Grout
- Grout sealer
- Trowels for spreading adhesive and grout
- Tile spacers
- Tile cutter or wet saw
- Mixing bucket, paddle, and margins trowel for mixing adhesive
- Notched trowel for spreading adhesive
- Grout float for applying grout
- Grout sponge
- Rubber grout float
- Clean buckets for grout and sponge
- Safety gear: gloves, goggles, knee pads
- Drop cloths or rosin paper
- Level
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Chalk line
- Utility knife
- Rubbing alcohol to remove grease and dirt
Prepping the Subfloor
Proper preparation of the subfloor is crucial for ensuring your tiles stay firmly bonded over time. Here are the key steps:
Clean the Floor
Use a broom and vacuum to remove any dirt, debris, wax or grease from the floor. Wipe with rubbing alcohol if needed. The floor must be completely clean before tiling.
Check for Level
Use a level tool to identify any low or uneven spots. Fill minor depressions with a self-leveling compound. For more significant unevenness, use floor leveling compound or mortar to level the floor.
Remove Existing Flooring if Needed
Remove any existing flooring if present, such as old vinyl, linoleum or carpet. Make sure to also scrape away any leftover adhesive.
Repair Subfloor
Inspect the subfloor (plywood, OSB, concrete) carefully and repair any cracks, holes or weak areas. Moisture on concrete can cause tiles to release, so test humidity before tiling.
Add Backerboard for Plywood
For plywood subfloors, install cement backerboard as an underlayment. This provides a sturdy surface and prevents moisture issues. Screw backerboard firmly into place.
Planning Your Layout
Careful planning ensures you have enough tile, borders match up properly, and the pattern is visually pleasing.
Choose a Layout Pattern
Common tile patterns include grid, brick, herringbone, basketweave and more. Decide on a pattern that suits your personal style.
Measure the Room
Take detailed measurements of the floor space – length, width and any odd angles or alcoves. Calculate the square footage.
Determine Tile Needs
Read the tile packaging to see how many tiles are included per square foot. Use this info and your room size to estimate how many full tiles you’ll need. Factor in an extra 10% for cuts and waste.
Map Your Floor
On graph paper, draw your floor plan to scale and sketch the tile layout. Plan where any border or accent tiles will go.
Purchase Extra Tiles
Always buy extra tiles beyond your room measurements. This provides extras in case any break or get damaged, and for future repairs.
Cutting the Tiles
Use a wet saw or tile cutter to cut your tiles to fit around irregular edges and fixtures.
Measure Carefully
Take precise measurements and transfer them to the tile. Remember to account for the grout joint width in your math.
Cut Several Tiles at Once
For straight cuts like edges, stack several tiles together and cut through the stack for efficiency.
Cut Holes Before Installing
Any outlet covers or fixtures should have tiles cut to fit around them before installing. Make clean hole cuts.
Use Wetsaw for Curved Cuts
For detailed cuts around pipes or complicated edges, use a wetsaw to carefully shave the tile to the right shape.
Save the Cut Pieces
Keep cut tiles or partials. These can be handy for filling in gaps or edges once the main field is installed.
Applying the Tile Adhesive
To firmly adhere the tiles, apply a thin layer of tile mastic or thinset mortar using a notched trowel.
Choose the Adhesive Type
For porous surfaces like concrete, use thinset mortar. For non-porous surfaces like backerboard, use mastic adhesive.
Spread a Small Section at a Time
Work in sections of around 4-6 sq. ft. Apply adhesive only where tiles will go down soon before drying begins.
Use a Notched Trowel
Choose a trowel with notches sized for your tile thickness. Spread in straight rows, pressing firmly to create consistent ridges.
Apply Even Coverage
Spread the adhesive over the entire area, ensuring full contact with the subfloor. Follow the trowel directions for coverage.
Let it Sit 5-10 Minutes
After spreading the thinset, allow it to slake or sit for a few minutes before installing tile. This allows moisture to dissipate.
Setting the Tiles
Once the adhesive is prepped, it’s time to securely set each tile into place following your layout pattern.
Work in Small Sections
Focus on one section of a few square feet at a time. Set all those tiles before moving to adjacent areas.
Use Tile Spacers Consistently
Insert spacers around each tile edge to maintain even grout joint size. Remove spacers before grouting.
Press Tiles into Adhesive Firmly
Use a slight twisting motion to fully embed tiles into the mortar, pressing out any air pockets or gaps.
Check Level and Alignment
As you go, use a level and measuring tape to verify tiles are perfectly flat and aligned. Adjust as needed.
Cut Edge Pieces Last
Around borders and edges, measure and cut partial tiles to fit after the field tiles are placed. Insert these last.
Grouting the Tile
Grout fills the joints between tiles with a waterproof material that prevents cracking and damage.
Allow Adhesive to Cure
Let the thinset fully cure – usually 24 hours for mastic or 48 hours for mortar – before applying grout.
Dampen Porous Tiles
Some natural stone or porous tiles should be lightly misted with water just before grouting to prevent staining.
Prepare Grout per Package Instructions
Mix grout powder with water in a bucket to a thick, peanut butter-like consistency. Let it slake for 10 minutes.
Apply Grout with Float
Use a rubber grout float to spread grout over the entire tile surface, pressing into joints. Hold at 45° angle.
Clean Excess Grout
Once applied, go back over the surface with the grout float edge to scrape off excess grout sitting on the tile face.
Wipe Grout Joints
Use a damp grout sponge in a circular motion to smooth joints and clean film from tile surface. Rinse sponge frequently.
Allow to Dry
Let the grout dry fully for 24-48 hours. Avoid walking on floor during this time to prevent cracking grout.
Sealing & Protecting the Tile
Sealing the grout and tiles provides an extra layer of protection from moisture and stains.
Check Grout Manufacturer Guidelines
Review when the grout manufacturer recommends sealing – often 48 hours after installation.
Apply Grout Sealer
Use a paintbrush or foam applicator to apply a thin, even coat of grout sealer onto all grout lines. Avoid puddling.
Seal Tile Surface as Needed
Some types of natural stone or porous tiles benefit from overall surface sealing. Use appropriate tile sealer product.
Allow Sealers to Fully Dry
Follow product instructions, but expect at least 2-3 hours of drying time before walking on floor. Ventilate well.
Reseal Grout Yearly
Reapplying grout sealer every 12-18 months will maintain protection and keep the grout looking its best.
Helpful Tips
Follow these extra pointers to ensure your tile installation goes smoothly from start to finish.
- Always mix tile from several different boxes when installing to prevent color differences between batches.
- Be exact with measurements and layouts – even small offsets can make uneven grout lines.
- Keep foot traffic off the new floor for at least 48-72 hours to prevent damage while adhesive cures.
- Verify all subfloor prep and installation procedures for the specific tile you’ve chosen. Requirements vary.
- Have tile cuts professionally done for complicated patterns like hexagons or mosaics – intricate cuts can crack tiles.
- For larger floors, work in sections of around 30 sq. ft. to control timing of adhesive and grout applications.
- Work slowly and double check layouts often. Fixing mistakes after tile is set in mortar is difficult and messy.
- Slide tiles gently into position to prevent adhesive ridges from drying before tile is placed. Don’t walk or kneel on set tiles until cured.
With the right prep work and materials, even first-time tilers can get beautiful, long-lasting results from a DIY tile flooring project. Just focus on each step in the process and don’t be afraid to ask experts for advice. Taking a careful, meticulous approach will help ensure your new tile floor looks sensational for decades to come.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of tile is best for flooring?
For floors, chose a durable and easy-to-clean tile like porcelain or ceramic. Natural stone can also work well but requires extra sealing. Avoid soft materials like travertine for high-traffic areas.
How do I determine how much tile I need?
Measure the total square footage of your floor space. Read the tile packaging to see how many tiles cover one square foot, and use that to calculate how many full tiles you’ll need. Add at least 10% extra for cuts and waste.
Can I install tile over existing flooring?
Most flooring like vinyl, linoleum or wood must be removed before tiling. In some cases, tile can go over well-adhered vinyl if properly prepared. Never install tile directly over carpet or foam.
What thinset mortar should I use?
For natural stone, always use a polymer-modified thinset. White thinset works for ceramic, porcelain and glass tiles. If unsure, consult with a tile pro to match the right adhesive to your tile type.
How soon can I walk on newly tiled floors?
Avoid walking on the floor for at least 24 hours after installation. Wait at least 48-72 hours before moving furniture onto the tile or exposing it to heavy use. Give the thinset plenty of cure time.
Why is my grout cracking or crumbling?
If new grout starts to crack, it likely got wet or damp too soon before fully curing. Using too much water when mixing grout can also cause shrinking and cracks as it dries. Seal grout promptly.
How often should I reseal my tile?
Most tile sealers need to be reapplied every 1-2 years, especially in bathrooms and kitchens. Grout sealers may need resealing every 6-12 months depending on usage. Annually is a good rule of thumb.
Conclusion
Installing tile flooring lends beauty and value to any room when done properly. Arm yourself with the necessary information, tools and preparation to avoid easily avoidable mistakes. Focus on good layout techniques, allowing enough drying time between steps, and keeping the space clean during the process. With some patience and care, even inexperienced DIYers can get stunning results and a durable new tile floor to enjoy.
